Sunday, September 23, 2018

Jigsaw Table with Quick Install and Release

I made this simple jigsaw table for my shop. It is very basic and can be made using  your cordless drill, jigsaw and a few other simple tools.  You can go to your Home Depot and get them to cut the base top and sides to the right dimensions.

I made the base and top 11"x 15". The height is 11". The box is inset to the base 2" this is to help with clamping the unit on a workbench or other table. 

You can make the first part of this table and clamp it to a table or workbench and use it right away. Or you can carry on and make the box. 

Here are a couple blocks, they will be for support/guides for the jigsaw. Four holes are drilled using a countersink bit.

Using a ruler carefully measure and mark the position for the blocks.
First screw on one of the blocks then put down the jigsaw and firmly place the other block on and screw it in. The jigsaw should now feel secure with no side play.

I can make the mark for the blade. To do that I found an old blade and cut it so it would fit even with the bottom of the jigsaw. This made the marking so simple.

The slot was drilled out using a 11/32nd drill bit.

Cupped 1" magnets are now installed. These are available from Lee Valley, they have a countersunk screw hole in the center of the magnet which makes them easy to install or remove.

These are very strong earth magnets so you must be careful, I made a video of  a simple  magnet separator which will come in handy.

 A front block is drilled on, this will act as a stop guide when the jigsaw is put in the box and also helps with removal. 

The magnets are very strong and after a few tests I knew they would work fine.

 Three sides are screwed together to make the support for the top. Remember to always use the right size drill bit for the screws or the wood will split.


With the jigsaw the corners can be rounded, this looks better and now there wont be any sharp edges. I did this only to the top since this is the work area.

Screws are countersunk and put on the top. I then put on a few coats of Polyurethane. After it was ready I made many test cuts using different types of wood such as hardwood, softwood and dowels.

Everything turned out great, I was very pleased with the table. Caution should be taken when using the table. Since pieces are not clamped the upstroke of the blade can lift the workpiece so you always have to hold the pieces firm.

                         You can watch the video Here

See Also:

                     Large wood clamp                                                                          Mini bevel gauge

Saturday, September 8, 2018

How to Build an Oscillating Sander

An oscillating sander is a good for controlled fine sanding. The best way I can think of is similar to sanding drywall. You would not use a  belt sander for drywall. Also, the drill helps to get the proper speed you  need.  

The base will be 5 1/2"x 17 1/2'. The guides will be 12 1/2" inches in length. They will be screwed onto the center of the base. There will  be 2 1/2" on each side of the base. This will help when clamping the unit on a workbench or table.  

Maple is used for the guides and the  rail. They are all cut at 20 degrees and fit together perfectly to make a smooth slide system.

This piece will be for the support for the shaft and wheel. A metal sleeve will be added to help reduce wear on the wood. 

A second hole is drilled for a pin. The pin will be screwed into the wheel and will fit in the slot to move the slider.                                                                   

See the video build here.


The slider will consist of a frame mounted on the rail. The slot will be for the pin on the wheel to move the slider back and forth. 

An aluminum rail will be added to help keep things slick. I found a piece in my junk bin and cut it to size, the same length as the guides.  I took a piece of fine steel wool and cleaned it up a bit.

I used my Angle grinder holder to cut the aluminum to 12 1/2" in length. It will be screwed onto the base. Two small screws one on each end will do.

Here is most of the pieces put together, it still needs a top and sandpaper.

A top is made from a block and screwed on. Slots were  cut on both ends, this will be for the sandpaper block to snap on and also for a screwdriver to fit in for the screws on the bottom of the slider. 

The base is 2 1/2 inches larger on each side so it  can be clamped easily on any table. 

Here is the bottom of the sanding block. to make the sanding blocks two dowels are glued in, they match the slots on the slider and snap on very secure.

The sandpaper block is very simple to make and replace. After testing I was very happy with the sander. I will make many more sanding blocks with different grits and am sure I will get lots of use from it.

See Also:                                                                                             

Make spoons with table saw                Easiest way to make dowels