Wednesday, March 25, 2020

How to Build a Model Car Case



I recently started collecting model cars, I don't know much about them but know the ones I like and they are usually the ones I had when I was younger and many old cars. There is a lot to learn and I am having fun. 


Check out the build Here
                     




First thing to do is figure out the size for the compartments.  After checking a few of the longer cars I found 90 cm length would work best. 





I used some scraps and made some cuts with my measurements to see if the height and length would work and if everything would fit together properly. When I was happy with what I had I was ready to move on to building a larger case.  






The strips were cut 50mm wide. I cut many extra strips for the case and a few for testing and the rest for future model case.   


Making the notches




To make the notches I measured 90 mm from the blade cut mark and drilled a small hole then tapped in a nail. After the nail was in I cut the head off.


     



A second hole was drilled for the nail. It was pulled out with Nail Jack pliers, and tapped into the hole. The spacing for the holes is 46mm and 90mm.





The pieces are clamped together and cut on the table saw using the miter saw gauge with the pin. I found one clamp is all that is needed to secure the boards while cutting. I did not use a dado blade but made the notch twice the thickness of the blade.




The boards are lined up and with the help of a  rubber mallet the compartments are snapped together.



Making the frame



 

The frame boards are cut to the right length using the measurements from the compartment boards.











A rabbet cut was made on the back of the frame before it was assembled. This will be for the backboard.


The compartment assembly fit very tight and to secure it to the frame all that was needed was to tap it in. It was a perfect fit and will not go anywhere. If your fit is a bit loose a little bit of glue will work.









See also 


        Book Ends                                                                         Tool Wall

                                                                                                   
                                                              




           

Sunday, March 1, 2020

Deep Throat Clamps


After searching online for some long reach clamps I decided to make some myself. Either they were  too expensive or I did not know the quality I was getting. 

Also making them myself let me make them the size I needed. It is so simple to screw in the pipes to the elbows.  There are many size threaded rod available so check with your hardware store.






How to Make



I went to Home Depot and bought some galvanized pipe and threaded rod.  2- 18", 1- 4 1/2", 2 elbows and 1 piece of 1/2" threaded rod. The cost was around $16.00. 

This clamp has a throat reach of 18" and a height of 4". Later I purchased a 12" pipe and now the height can reach 11".




                    

To start I drilled one of the ends of the pipe using a 1/2" drill bit. 

                          

                            

 With no force, glue or grinding I was lucky and the nut for the threaded rod  just so happened to fit perfectly inside the pipe. The nut does not have to be secured at all since the threaded rod will line it. 





 All the pieces are screwed together hand tight to see how everything fits. Just screw the pipes in the elbows.... so simple. 

Testing the strength

 At this time I thought I would do some tests for strength.

                       


I used some clamps and blocks of wood to set up the clamp. To test it I will sit on it. I weigh 200 lbs and I am sure it will hold up. 

                      



                                

The bars held up and there was some flex. I know it could have withstood more but for my uses it will be all I need.


The Handle


I found a piece of scrap hardwood and cut it to 7 inches I then drilled the center using a bit slightly smaller than a 1/2 inch. This will be for the threaded rod and will turn tight in the handle. A little bit of epoxy will also be applied making this a strong handle.


                                                          
The handle was shaped using a belt sander .



I drilled the handle right through for the end of the threaded rod.



                         

A slot was cut in one end of the threaded rod. This will be for a slotted screwdriver bit to turn the handle quickly.



                          


The threaded rod was put in the handle with the slotted side keeping flush on the end and epoxied together.

Making The Pad



A swivel pad is made using plywood. First was drilled then cut on the bandsaw.   See more details on the video.



A washer is placed in the cup, this will help for friction and also prevent wear on the wood.


The washer and cup are epoxied and clamped together.


Another wood pad is glued onto the wood block. This pad can be easily trimmed off and replaced with a new pad.




I purchased another pipe, this one was 12 inches. With so many different sizes available you can pick whichever size suits your needs. 




The long reach clamp works great on the table saw.


I changed the height of the clamp using the longer threaded rod and was now able to use it on my workbench.


Conclusion

This clamp was easy to make and very inexpensive. You can also change the length and width of the clamp buy buying different size pipes. The deep throat or long reach clamps come in handy in the shop and are ideal for hard to reach areas. 

Making the clamps is easy enough even if you all you have is a drill and some basic woodworking skills.


See also
          
Wooden Clamp                                        Large Clamp 




                                               














Saturday, February 1, 2020

Tool wall french cleat plus



 Always trying to clean and organise my shop so I decided to build a larger tool wall. Having many tools and picking the ones I use most is always handy and keeping them at arm's reach. This is what I call a French Cleat Plus system, because you can make tool holders that slide or hang. I like to be able to move tools around so you can add take away or rearrange any time. 



                                            Check out the build video here



 To start the wall I used 1/2" baltic Birch. I cut it to 60"x40" to fit the space I had, which was between two tool cabinets. The black will be a good contrast with the light wood. 



I found the wall studs and screwed the board in with 9-2" screws.



I cut 12  boards L 28" x W 5", they were all cut all 45 degrees. To cut I kept the tablesaw fence the same and just kept flipping the boards



The layout for the boards took some time to get everything symmetrical but worth it.



I attached the boards with my nail gun using 2 inch brad nails. Each board was carefully installed using guides levels and measuring tape. This ensures a precision job.






Time to make the tool holders.





Two types are made, one that slides in the slots and will not fall out and the other can be easily put on and taken off.  






Here you can see the two types of holders. Making the holders and filling the tool wall takes time but is very pleasing.




 Conclusion

Depending on your needs  both holders will work fine, both have their pros and cons, make whatever works for you. I like them both.  Making the dowels any length and size is handy and convenient to fit specific tools.  



See also:

                             Small tool holder